tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35922849353630401912024-03-14T01:51:09.284-07:00hydration is our highest prioritymostly wine, sometimes beer. a bit of context, as detailed a tasting note as possible, and as much information about the beverage and how to purchase it as i can provide.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.comBlogger167125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-60909294120353830712016-09-25T15:34:00.000-07:002016-10-17T13:34:21.489-07:00the time of adventuresa late arrival in budapest can sometimes begin with palinka and end with burgundy. the next morning, some of us awoke slightly the worse for wear. fortunately, we were not due in szekszárd for many hours. palinka is a highly alcoholic substance that should be consumed with discretion.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SXzL_l0OcAl_EQZas8XGFcItmfIOk_D-x9fBY07dc1uQR5hAop7bLiZ6aJoEHzUV39KtMKYAcGQ=w987-h1316-no" width="480" /><br />
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szekszárd is one of hungary's key wine regions. each year there is a fair featuring folklorical cultural activities including traditional dancing, customary hats and costumes, historical snack foods, and the sale and consumption of local beverages. due to the heat and humidity, hydration was our highest priority.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6ZO5PNSd6aALvo9fflNinIxvHwjiZAopOqCbbxh53abVxn0X_MtauBOO41fVw-CEPt9ggfYvO76U_5ueX-VOVat0Ef14TELQ6O5CSpR2TtJm4h01yY9F8LLB-it9gjSkn0okWHyGy-Tc8THf3rDzA4qfWA10Ubc3HIz2GAzA3JA_yb3ZPTk4rJczk422eXHDqKcMkhURK2iAd-wAhY1bQSnNyk-KCIHddwQZXwA4tXeSs98vctSez9NrKAq1vUgSiiLZRObq6ANJeRC-0b0Cie2haBlDpHUQnqkPjVcJkywRjvVRh9tKp4i08SjTlXl17QRfarrwiA-CK0v0iD3--AUPBBWTF2d64s0GXK0uq2ckJk-6gfdjXPmRNw6ECxqebjpRvVbSMYCj0LHISWsASUCfetKG5vW9dKRxkWjCEqEcyCka22bgxh2bGsDwn_9S1Ddy7TJ4EhPQwY8NhdeNM3Ixy3_ZH42PTQyF4gG-iQjFkCgdqOoXlOLYJswqD6-c370MabHc6KSHAyl3yyBaFgCwBzlRsbXZgDxDnifKYRbcEM3s4x3Qxm77m_vnN-pdHL31Tt9Dzz0wlj1W6tjZ5ZHlT3gHDvDrstecTZZfLFYbH6nVMQ=w987-h1316-no" width="480" /><br />
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we closely observed local cultural practices and attempted—with some success—to penetrate the hermeneutic circle. <br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qvf1kk6OxlBRHFkDId7DaG7L2hzAUTf01Wv_0NeFp2AMaukmGBhn3ssigbS74ec5b531IEHA8wxCzTfddJL9E3pxf6fVXycpOMurPKmWlotD9zMpKwub8sq3oZcFar1ud84aiG5mJaStkCN6nxWRd90iR7vsSYriQvIjzsOrOZL3v2vZnB8E6izwBYu3w8Omct3CjtcmbONe6yCbL53qOt7xDmREAvGsVy0K20LJH1Itgb77duyI0aMiDyjVxuwb23Cf6HItuJpmz5AKwDIzesfmBoTHx6eGxn_dS2R-kKmrI54Iv_Bd3jvVBNHMb_y5Xrney16b70kgxGO4iLpdda5NuAmGAdYnui8LT2nJFWjSaw29EbbbM9McmRUex6dN7_p82JPVEpsJEWMZugUQRjrVaUvhhqxG3Yo1XAV4VCly0K8lQMkGemfGlm9pacWQVDLgBpMaLXdtJWCACHkD1vEGQBeF0FAWmXKf1HUBUDJ5JDvwXfblKazX_MPUmAb3KoBkP6oGr0kA1h4zyoJVbaoiKWNoSa32vvc_m0uWh8iukNlAJzowQ51Aj3ZIFWgdchx_gk3PiWqrH7YcQugQ65f6PRdyCaUZ3euEJJJqSuN_PyW03Q=w987-h1316-no" width="480" />
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several hours later, we had somehow accumulated many empty beverage bottles.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XjpKjjaTaRSz6LMxOwLklasYJr9oSfCJlIE7q0saJCM7Z9sbbZbtR8ap-u_9FHZB0S1iTrqItf2iE8Kk33oo8qzAPuZDUBVRxCw5wPiSNVblbvueF7YL-RH1gAikJR7NS_JxKZ0eAJFm-DcMWA-fp2Fmx2I4tKF6_4lN2voktda-1ob0QzxkzennHpC1LJgI6vO478hhREKU-vIBWzxsjXYUZFz-YF69Wt5vEgMvgC8ksgq8EzS3By1W64OubT-LlBOupiOTQdRxJpHjNmeICT68KP_o7GW8enWhh3Xzo2pE9qDuuOOnsO8_qO5Ddkas2Drdb1grDTaV-XO7t-KBPwK5nAqGxuXsPry91h8YDQyciFiPvnL4TFA6HuuUpSxN--eMTt_3BcagCV5lNMa1WiOBhc7IeW69N1QyMBiWjoUoGnSp5x-digHzda3GmUCXOQeguIPucyc9hpcDT-1GMmoaC50v6sip-nnB0LE4KBzvDAdCVosOnxL29Cesl_shwAXkW3z1rxbuu13s17Zy9zUsQdzv2GVG2S5QbWTarK9amzDIufqKrXfu1DxpySTMmCdkXcuO6ZWFSKah0Ry-H_M8RjS215lWNCTL67tCYjVG71gBqg=w987-h1316-no" width="480" />
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the next morning, some of us awoke slightly the worse for wear. the hallways of our lodgings were decorated with the product of one woman's decade-long engagement with artistic practice. her work was informed by many genres of world art.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cPCsKBeQpPVor3mWVGIAqlEcL-Hg7YKGimF7CvBFCCaHzILaDulkVQXd1sTZ9xA-Vx2ie5r_WxQ=w987-h1316-no" width="480" />
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after the previous day, a calming itinerary seemed advisable. one that involved as little movement as possible. we went for coffee, fröccs, and peppers. and we met bob the dog.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RFwvA39_Cuj9GgJZpKqWH9omIIJGsT3aKKKTTBjVABgpCPEILQw_dOQDy79e54KfEFMMvAjn-skswGQlpL99Wg5BMwlgWYH29B_G7_a9K3KUsHxLUhSYsnDQ_AizEv_ZJgevTjoC6LQhTEk4pZ9Oqw2WJueEuhpAwzNoayc9Yoj2kH5GFAdkjsPEoIQtuUvinNC6iNTdVtTipgUoG_Dq20OzepuDF2YF_j_QYS2LGP2r4gG9EfcMijCS_jNEg25tgydxe8ceLQmgruIrKsyu5hkeEg7EpghMhhHhOVbgG0IyjX_JB7uC6iKSZpbWMxic1ee5M0hMPXbY1GOVTnh5fzKey5iDacvdcvTxtVysEYelcNfqWDo-c4qH2NAgnr5Cwk4lWD_6sSMOeLk1CIYoxSUFedqDBJ65vEw08LC1XfFcd-ouqMZl0s_PoGP82UFPytFAAU8VOjZzScFSpoXslhju7juop5ndx1yyFxKclEHexaAoyMOn7MuZhIaYgpDm3aEGODjAGJBfC59UwQmn9VUNtJeOfS3o48XU88tx5VKSSyr9SbTVylG3P5AYsEt4_yExRh-hbII-VX3TsBY9w7wADS3Mu68B4gL9eKDVasKzgskcjA=w987-h1316-no" width="480" /><br />
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then we visited the old family winery with its mould-covered fermentation cellar and olde tyme ornaments.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AKI4FWTJE6z9Yg1fVgqIOxXfDORS1bQgRRpQiyjVqV2aIuKmYStOLv9oABEau_JDe4-IJzV-FfamCqagL0aSYx3UR8lvFd6OXMtdKVvtkvCOgaDKGtBv3pynEoPmVyyqbACYEd8MPy4hLewUqgPl8J7pocBN2xGV3AW9MlG7rPUq_a05s2LhvN0s3gwHtNtzlquALIchGYUhjX62xAVpkFgdXG62gle4SfBgdvqVYt3tY6pz7dmPGW847uQOsQo3xEGBxgB9OMubfuxm6kCvKCniHiNJ6Wd4zS7LeZDnEAwdndFqv4d-jf8YvVz15XYlZIEWzvlblcjuWUoNvESxSetXx3MJVdhiBfRiZID1Ah6UOfXpFr3B-o9S7ATZz_4nJ6GpAriayjlW-2YQvyy8keml6N9LE7BkrIsG7Ilfyimjd5DwhepKZsawNXy4X6hB9EgI7VK1tWJfa9WZ928ZTbV2VMMkc4tNiQDnnEYhBmz5buvt_EVdBNLMm4rGzfU0lioIJl5aHCfBpGht7OlOxo6j6WXtmb86h36dq-hTZ3CyvEzgHBOo1rfoBqWeWzeN2fmaxIlHWkBB5htVMv9TkUkhA1MBr6H3wOyorFrD3LZVXeJkQ=w987-h1316-no" width="480" /><br />
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a brief stop in the family vineyard and orchard, then on to bean soup at a roadhouse prominently displaying the universal symbol for ice cream. an extremely sedate and calming day.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9I6f73MCPkx8ujpqoCy1wO6KJdUzyZF7zmPTA1u3GikS8SVt-4oU31qHi9aShIhgARD-eNFr59vqvAiKajK1Ee6MqFvhvCeeF6F-T8v35AH9VASb6fGYUQWClCGH8QTI3Noekeq24nBVSSoq7BzmV1oI4KArW6C4aOJwtLk7iFtXEQpFqVKTkUx0ZsyX75E3ZakwOh8HVVO4aYBDwdHsWMBI0XQXSxyDNHqjlXf9cUjA3_qY8w1d--Daqvke0pejuMfPKFV96246NmUEuIJlU6PHof4AYdYzp2AhdMQAcsMNKDVP_Txh80l_IJRx85HFLX5weQkYDi0Od_deAu5xeCCY2CL8bopohCYFZldbrXW4WC0QSxrV10hin6DzpyLM3CHH9tsEACSunBHeQkGhUBeFFic3tr_YPci4l1DAMK2yehTBq8rzB_LqRsuwLXGclgYHkJ-cT7Zwlde7yjAZwMk9I-KoQhwNoXbEAjvohXOFLN6_TVU1Luy0WMTcyYkj2zjQqvWoJc786iGYSEnJcOv1_CFb8sS6NmO1HLU_ivwb_rG5JuW1xi3z_xB0XHq1kAu7bl97pWQkdJTkgFk3ivurh42j38eEnNDzJprLf-O_SeNC3Q=w987-h1316-no" width="480" /><br />
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but after a post-prandial nap, old patterns reasserted themselves.<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uLEhYxX-F94dFZs0Jhfv3FAcq3qUBmEYVSDJDd2EeyZZcl4ivRvlTgBQC42o0G55tB0icYD5R4o=w1280-h961-no" width="480" /><br />
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the next morning, some of us awoke slightly the worse for wear. fortunately, we were not due in budapest for many hours.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-70168298793157471772016-09-13T11:32:00.000-07:002016-09-13T11:32:17.285-07:00explosión de mariscos<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K-VQrLqjSbBEktJSQ9w1YG9izWuQYvCb-z2PD4onmP-sBWeNhdA-cWcTZMhP3hV1vqNAMZv9gP7mRztPqa21bPNPuHsjz6x8BJsQpQEiwV-3Sg1sM9-T5OGXuKfmMNKojOMmvnFrPKLGEj9bwgI67HSGkgQU3bT0LfSlWmmsd7z_OgkuK9zzrq99pAvXoYxj1RYd2H6IIuXOGjAf8gIZLYNt5Skp_vDNyI0pU7PidQLe-QuqIy2pFIywZa71I2n9TTfYOJwwhKhhr4mhjAaiMLPDViibsOfUyf6L6Inhz2mu_TyimlWSZxKws105jvUz4m1CBnS7GgN1LA9OFkLobfB_d_cRRF8H2q5o0E8IJEXUesDgcrTBonoPm0inQCALA2NeBA8_5iQykatikNdWJcnvpF-gXCzNKb38MnTMpJ-KO8k3YNQe8A13u18PACWr-oZa4QbQdlKEqceCICAssCLODBPV4lrdVeLvBIz6381BgbrTGHJEfKHzOttNnrbhTIX57_lhDN5aqJGBwQfmrLoRdmLZA2eq9__C7WhTyD_JiGs2TOA4HbyGAGdka5du9oL8yQhAA49DWXqKfZBvn28oJvl3kkAO9gOMqv1FcV2NIEqO6Q=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
in galicia, the kitchen was serviceable; the view from the balcony was better.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xyz4Rw1zzGonbMpPaXu-FQybmnojG5WIgjrYw5t-D-x2GmHmFiLsg4PrVntwBRKQlRc6EWOyt0wQC_pjOFOX6gzK9Yc23HpOoG6sKcvgva9wrR3Ng1RgJiZEV2mGybSUu3dEbYT6v3IjevZLv-VySKUEi971gXCSudT4udycJrjrUspq6mQ_p9SgoRT89DizAPva0020XgVkjyX2FB8lXaTkdzPYYVBeY-Nm3FiMxe7LFdJuBXO1rhv86zGNk5nug8K3SX5DmVQyd9sfC1NY5adl4TDkLfmlwpHlOxAtCbSBRwKq7STsWjUoQh_LfSnv9wCsyQBbaAjs7di3htsHYx3ZemOzGzqhFJZYJ9LOVl5cfhQR88xixZn7M8ab7IEgHblnyU2lKxlvOniiPuwUdCeLVwsjVhrE_eq27f2kbInbXNjCzVr3mUHlZeGs2HY57adK1Y5H3WmpX29esAs0GCgOqEiYNmZFoeTmIdKuyhdyO6ouqtA4U8bhmrvkYSNFa1YmaaKZP1QI9enrtasGEPnALB0-1YzmSr1CblQ7-md6xtKMj3s8yVhEzATWSsTAt9SkpCiWJIbgyIrFF08J1evUYPX-gBhPE74JjZ4WnR-H-ZtAlA=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
the markets were amply provisioned, and there were many bottles; some of them were very tasty. the cooler came in handy.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zdrB7O4TVP6MVOIXrACbl4uejT3xVGkmnGd0cMYZI63WZMWHBhJyDldz0OfPPUg3vM_qY7-4uHQHx9sUggMy3-EarESCbaiLXrk5Lmx7r741sIMi0KSIin_JA68AmtoLdeeMebK3I2TF5tr9K-NyHqk0g53K_cnG_ebLA09OE53ybMv1STTARmJ45RhZPGFTyt3glEt3e6vAMju_la_XoyZdv5odvplV-57RdKeVRouIQn2VjMQi-N4Jxl16n_xppVacR2Pr8vRXTB8sSOd0c0dRgueaLYW1p7TXaD4QI-apQffU0StfUvzGR8Oet1Bi-oOlFa0w4uDWX8T5tpK45eymE-zhpbX3Npke1dDWxAdFiabRe-pcgCuD5Bg41pe8BamquhSPC-GX0swYaoduYXTIM3VWY-pWlNGHFVy-xsi34ePNFhK8_SoQe2syCmMsw-UYIBJSeaZx3XfYEteUqQnj7tCJggXq1ehzdf-bvtaAd0ElgzwcVtUtb1-p0DljL-dQi80L18AZRuTmZ0BoCWAwfMXd8-M0udlCKK7cMFLc8y-tBCVottbXvw8HBLsDIXcqMkdUP0CBcyp7Z6x4b0vQkFxhaP16qPv_MdOAZ55EracQFQ=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
we discovered the virtues of the can.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O3EAptoSisMp6J39H2Wd8O9tP8m-qbuRKUnd90VBN8S5MBw_E6qG2h1C7D0IAAqtriEXZumSClEZgbb7UmlcT13LsNuqzp4qCKhhEmFK-JPDo6hGcGrqtgErmMzX7fTH4NUults52QVLs92ulrl23TdaIKGxHygTEOkVaV1PhEI6AYkEIbC04rn89BLQMMYjpWCe5StQYCEXruqvwM_1gwXHSnm-1kgdJrxJ5Z5QXLWoSFLexKA2jfaFYzyArBWNmGRqtvpDoxgaxO4aYpWv4pPwNbXO-_67mNhE2o2BUlKZqchnKkoVz_jOQqRiYEQsMDLc3vR41H_L1jDmKtlg0WRYdRoKv_3OgWyssGWDnnSVAagFzJG4pqeW6CXkLa8_3F1YjRJKTj99gwxbjMuAdOVPC-MYGro-iUDTDtLbDKh_URP8dFhRCUgatRILMz6YbwAajhsk5V7s3RswL4T_0-dzuesT4NbgVeH1iIcPQmQoW9C5fkxBAEXIvmcOxN1vE5D8VRBEZsBD-Dgw7cst6RSIDjECZpsmjzKdlro6W0PYX3OucPBEHFiCd5wMHCEe61AfTIiU3GaKsnZ2BbuiE_pjBAEz36hXbNByesfcNw-AwHnjMw=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
the town has a fishing co-op with a shop which opens twice a day to sell day catch from boats that dock right outside.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ku3fdH780gXCqvJ3WUrgDxHu6nuYVa8Q1M_RDtGbL-SrdjsQMhNgP_Fnp2KQTHo6YLfbGt3py6tZEGAgs6UwM9GfYazX5KmfKBYAibOUTVLvFiSK7s0UnqiRjHA9RJQc4_UfzQZSJrhhZEsTJhLxRTYYlxOvJ8V2PZ5C859MXUJCeUDdb1XF3ULIu5ruXLB9jhYU699h6dY-E1SVBUKRmPFj4k5J29PUSZtfn8OggdTIAdJx_YnzqCgq-Z9rQ3ZzPgwuc1wJeZqPDn3lmFuJPFm2GEqMsoPP09mBoyD_E0JWi2Mekv7f5wYZLklX6SO0L-WVspMpEmATAdv6clrdNy4wETUIYkVB5B9XWgW-wW-BqGHE4x2eLlCZSBTuc3svxPvR7JsJXLFgII0InHFRGRa5lMJitnYYZdnX61p5FsCJybRnuY92KdpzP2L5NvUi_IfYWm6RNsajasTV7W1sdhJtM4U5kLNbiSMtvy6E57GICObaK-SitUICpSeISP1b-Vp7YB_Z9PhB82yUqLKfaea1h3ipW9R0LsOymLDz3yl35OijO72PSpcvGt5GWY-Yr2qwKR1anPcQJ_7ts9bl8PX0Ol0FfqpJwwXe1_HofEU0p9o9gg=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
there were percebes. they were tasty.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p0lv7TwrdGIMIunQ-022WdsPlGLntwzev_Z_5UWgs7YJNlNI4PUYuCLv5LefK-8Fh_YHEV-8w6svE8T3ybdAiHFAdRvGCybkKvJ9vYWYzLa2_m2rgiuoOsNPSgOCswJTyoaFurQa0cvBy9LqLNVsDT17auaNQPRdfBBZA9kp6_WzRiCk0hekrW7oVzUhlC5-QON8haqyqtAzzJO0znFmxFwJMX23mUpSDHldCQ_EDOXT5prXmaz1qD-tGM8WkQNq48GVc1PccXtVHuGY4FpavDnK6LKS7vW-YDx4Jx1WCs9ddDoGkNnO0gE-tz7uJkc-PWTI9YuJsEDe1v7_v4FCwTLp6qSmvSkp3gIY2poUXHt699lm2rZldtMqc7IWB1Jjr7_40hoz-1BbiM3tmBrwWhc_kH44nv3I5pJjsoK_4VFWRk6dh_lKAJvsvbfd2ncEppgrtcLOoDcGSPKR6rjKtEM4laSVhoFkivOo7viqTCUXNI7Mjw58NWdV63FQZ2UxOgdbPAT3TnzjVbATGX32MXlP8x4lo5gAGQx5t_vU5j6C5YX3L5ocP4JFm3ynqNouoyhFxVkgrMydnHeO7BsVG82k7Rf53i5v4g11-roLxuS7NlTRbQ=w954-h1272-no" width="480"><br>
some of the percebes were fractal. (still tasty.)<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jKwB8HxWbse6UTofK4gsmRxPUm3NncpVsrUtH19rcdpqKoxk3YQtHha2PF2EAP-HVi4NtU7GzOJRioO2F9eVzVLDdJH-LFqKXOIhQL579JFP2kNeeJVdj4aa63p4-RbhvHYi_xY3SDOTui0kTFgFQKN6pr3FYQPyISZvl45FFNEsmrSSNjaqmMXK4bMBN-W6Mw43Ulr814JQ13x58m71Ys2JLyekr2HWeHuZ2fiCIVjjdFCzPGWOAviFo2of3jgFbS8wAmcailv6bmrl794XyCpswb2AoU2qWBQBarOhRr3Vx-u7Ifeg2CC6UAJlDZHrKAWXAPyUGS1D2RWIs8tS0gK_zHnRf2vxvLWnvI1AST-GMeoRLm9VYLSTuFSglF323WEVI_ZOcpyLOx_HE0HOwaCtRUzt6MWHVXhwFlltBMgGT_GIuzQU5lwpUPxaVtcAqaXiKNorzzh2bk1XKBVAJfsYket_o78zKUdETrG1hYxJMerKXmNdu43LF-rXcyoZaYTARwgZs1O3Wc4YeMnYQAToYlMV_mixSOOqWIlXx8u_YaEzjkcDe_SPUbD8WEDyiIncq3sbS49xB6dBNS2mbBylW_wr13-hxNBMAN7IjfRmJxkh9g=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
at a slightly fancy restaurant, we had remarkable scallops. note how little they have been fucked with. these were about the price of a mediocre plate of pasta in london.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wTV0vonooVKbK9Bf41jl81VoA6bBBIovzSc2QyegUiDIsXQ4VmWuJ11pvfuzi_rkjB8u_OM6Bb8noYMZJ7SJxso0WqAKzdm6RRdlYyZv81utfFMN49q6TxUU5b5WiiyqOqsKO_bzKftp0Xvz33EdQr_l4LzT3ZTMGdBURf1pux9z8Y3NtuPj7V0wZtNyyquQUjx6JMefDDMHgz5EAfHne_1MukHRoPGGMYgV3sSz5pnyURbvCz0K6-ZF7dr5oriLDlUSgTMviiLV9bMPyne3qq--Vc2G5BVTpIb3W07t0Ulnz8m5VrsEi9SCWRgQ5zTtw-9CZy3zrFa1zesUUNlPOG39vG2eON7FwK9e1h0WNXwvZ8Sj40rYV4xDU94ZS6eMpZuyQopm8NslxnL8tRZ9Pee9TAKQZJCbsVnUZ856seAgHd4QloBRkastUZ2NivntzgGf9jqueHG9zh7r3xuzKIqn5zQMnPIS_Opi4mFnW8fPZm1IlbHOnflHvjlTGQEBPngmqsFF0GHZWLthudzyxZgnH5zDpRmDju48w2OfA84XcXxbiD4s_gqb7QezAjqBMCbLxGFUTUGLjA9RYdspSMAWzD4XVcI0x0BSSF8ZpTLTogXBaA=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
there was also a lobster—that was quite messy. fortunately, i was wearing my lobster-eating shirt.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kXn060IZdRAAy_UfIldD3N4oN_FPpPXbjLL6A1Qbky_8yYtsU6C6uGgXc4z2zI-85l8R9U1DStNRk9ZpfHTmqNg3PW2O0EwdrQPYC2dfRKxW0Et3nSl6tubh4YN2bj_KsMVKG_tfIduu9tIGnnZwy_SGASQt4pRHDP08wZUc7o9yt-s3lhuEIAqfeBO-3A9b3pulB-EbwO7Z-dKen7rcA0bX2VPvADsetFdfnxkbqxDVCntnJxMDdn11aYPtrZyncz4cHkaaK-YA_OCA1Qlhqh3D8DqL0am7-bq5_YKvgg12eIJOvi3FKvLhnjdrkfj8lwK3SM88T0O5CWxQ-b16IBzpDnxuBRCjLUZyOw5U4Pj1nZRa9hOglwN7ntzJ3g33w6OlIguH3JAK-2jLOhBsflFY53MADXJ6oyeMTbUATAZjgfoYfxm3d-4KQ8vjdicrNETq-kt5KniDUQiMpGmHl3SBCU2PLrojqmiHqg0qMirSa2g2hr38klrM_oxZO02q1ftv1QFDKJSDdOZ2Kvgq9xzcoW-rw9ft7fGnv5dQv9gU24OgHrBS2OL99YAM0oFCrY6utn6biTTSnVJ1nsHBObipLuRtj3jfIUEpQYdvqOYtpAc-LA=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
the oysters at the roadside lunch spot at which we waited for a late afternoon audience with The Knight of the Valley weren't messy at all.<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Fl-DJXnFzDJj3WHNxV3xtzm-azxPx-C_D0NGiQ_ljUW57vLU8OBpqO7CXXxLlOQmBKTdoQja7WsJRQChEVhSah8xePt59YuP6ys8Af9ADyKiPU076oeluui7mRl-p4hw-zcCVJxdvhBW7oDg0_zxQ93mOUTjqAqCPZz8JkCtQ44pAPGUSGUn0W9JJcdypubDiHGfV5W5StTtcskQNU3K0hd_091tTegtSzF9QrFvy2imoRXquD-Sc-YGTj4HDgMk3y-spdeGnFlVt0GjnKpGzqvtEMorqtm_Ve7f6kgcFEB54Ec3jSsjWOq6Ha6EltPVoeo2GchicUtZld7zkfsT5xdz2S0bjvUfV2LC4BtvToEBW249O3L3MSAOL19WRI-EjjOxuHgd4Kip2TbL_VWMSQFBuM8CroqEixmGAC02K_mIFxQqDJ2aiJkc6g4a6VjWm6aAPyERqHjrZLCAaGCkUX91NHxlge2bzCixwzGson1MqTCcPBYWsyoI11O54jEkLAzAcj8RldMGvZacyiY-gxstFBDxf-hycKZ_9jgxaWblhOSDrCGSmaIfPVeq26dak7aZhkkiqABe4H0R9-FElcL3TGbSLauYBj6b5SKsPR6rVozlA=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
but most of the time we cooked shellfish,<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xR6VqrKTBmCuUBSX-Y8etBMOiAb12uoGjKwt0tPCAHqDsQFxzf4DsiJo6lvZpOIUUeebGIjYI8Lsfep-pQpsz9k7dZgZs95uIAOr3WeGBxBe9TbohrlYf3IlwiknqmLrdZ8auB50ca-Bg7PuV8Y34EvVTeZIGVHwbp3ZWYmv_zxj-QfCdwJAOOfTv5iu1e89TfXUkUn8V15IrYdObqLuIcQtU3Jz56vZcx6IcS11dWNd-OVEzxX90KZuSbvZcUmMZ0r2B8d1A9tu3pHdkvfhveLlrlUsRclJUmVjaubNMlYP8Aw2kNgkwYxs7veBFcJ6Wa6MjdiGAAt1WahkVYV_r_kSDKS2OuNVv_WN1lrW5b0uOWK_ucf1JYCfccxlOyI9VP7ly_TSCyCRJD-9ohIEQTfCcfuBr2619bqy97l6qnPzV3d4yB4SINqC9s0m4l8dfmVT21y7ja2QgAidZt17NBU5kGPZ6M3Ytzf0atjg3ZF98rdsLVD27IS7gozFaZtYXxeDVZle-sAnQey6OkpN8TlOCEAvX-NEVTedwsw6eifyZ5cCtKiUE4zFXyg9u1OVQDOE207XL4QR8MNbCnEVsmjsS9n148_gEMGXfV_bMHbHyU3XwA=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
and regular fish,<br><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W66f5_mybnX3dcjzD3p0VGCKczxiaJuLUhKERA_WNkbDQzo_jYfF5IR1XzzGeQC0B89HlqDK0eJypi0go4vKALA_h5D2n4zeF0ggXXJeuiUs5GLZOsI5A61e3YGCgNrnzNzI4KSE0UF99_uhtkiB_LG0dULIvVAhybb2GedSvQ_WZWyb1_TjoIHaAin6Su72_W4YYsGS-jhQ5fjq3Vn7AksJAwZmSfBPSQmCb7Uug8pj-lFiEQ63bRdVccgIbEDqoi9zaB9jo-spyZ-xGr7uLo9alwa3eofJZphcH-EiBwBW7Pz_85F9mU08doRvP9-BgdO-a_DpiIUuAh-akP7Vej4ui4UVUiquj0ohPkSrRejPbLqwRwUrz7JBGGBxOuy5EXYwHaYrUqw5gUTiZj02w5jZ3C6FbskrufPlyDZ_igNUUtzlbEa3XLzJbuZcE72oh1n3ECEmDbERTOtrlDm72jXIVvIZ-5XFlm72RA9SevJJi0DRP5SuHWEZVr-_4mtVOxPzEvLuLZcuigz-Fe9rlPBEzMkorJLDsys89YWoGfMTPlDQkBFXwVUpM7u2POrboZtOW4lcJ67zyK7ZQ3UzkI3sjUfhsFqdxt7TrBNrRWmac92buA=w954-h1272-no" width="480" /><br>
and sat on the beach. <br><br>
vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-29718489232504682202016-08-01T15:52:00.000-07:002016-08-01T15:52:12.092-07:00change and continuity<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Root admires La Pyramide, on the whole, but he holds that no restaurant on a byway can be called truly great, since its clients come a long way way to eat its specialties and it need scarcely ever change its menu. The truly great restaurateur is the one who can please essentially the same clientele week after week without boring or disappointing it.<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>a.j. liebling, "the modest threshold," in </i><a href="http://amzn.to/2adA7KY">between meals</a><i>. </i></div>
</blockquote>
vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-14238711106463984012016-07-14T16:46:00.000-07:002016-07-15T00:30:45.914-07:00around a watery city
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qsNY7j9GphSmuXOwKRXZTzw3h6s044QGZetGqghbBrwhZXzruQe37guR6eEx-5WAeV1Jyb6lRmSkvUHATW2lUBtzRnKFNXiF_E5SyWXB16LUY0RB0qC9Nf1xHAkS5z8zGHAWM2VOlVuCjv6akPmYWVnQFx_mHZCFC7_Fzpyb4U7WQGJUOLGPEoh8K-ZDSurCqbO2tmSugOr8hZVu8hDIjKnOuF8w1pIE6P6n2iptdT6mAj78xmiy_mNNOuHosuCJzdh66hMmz41bau7HAw5yHPpwwD8q8bTw7pXAamCXXgzd9U_dIt0Jgf_i-uTqKQsLYKsI90J6BsQY8Jjcba1h3IirLPkTKW_cdLRbPS07_nlL3JcAFz-q06EJCMG5xv9gZolwzcqtAjUoHn4gl0ckgkKDSSqjLapobOxFdQZJgvNhu8BklCOIDo7-dHwGZ9ZZi0YyfKycDdkRpqOJ4K0KcTHMw1kFzJ49IodGg5omsBcgidsjY6HsgzJIbJzn6v-vRrdFPn-PIoJA1IAK_gQkJ5jDoAvRjnTSc3_0Oljf_7gZHrK-BtjDpam1dfR5yjdIQjRgPQRwcogFviEtL4Oy2QehCiQ1Yqpp=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X17TErINmFQX7_1FyFRaClLAAsNKjlb6Uaqpz1y20EYKpO05u3dwxlFEQNkwv1CVbjKqaFMR3tNnpT5oOk_42I2Z8gWeQ34fML2hN_Xn2QGSkeBEpBUIp4SxmD03HZ8RktxQY6jC-LbS__lfAw6GaLK016k6Ss2TLhmhT5KOm9Ay66cOAB6C-64m1kR6IM8mirRA_pL9HIcH17rEp0Wc6-Dp_jBZrZzMQDC3DB94qSJ1iYfr2PpmTYF-aFFBEeypj3dyhwkWlYsA22uiFJPmxKm-gU2Mz_ytPtU7cfyBTYNORvTkd2NEA6HiTdKEX34Wx3dzUP6dxiBun8zipeLCk8jOljK_gXcCuMPeKlncuwQAOCAggl1Dwp6PNkQfOzK7WH7aYPGf_QKOq9Q5JJz7oQN81ubfmYzak7fKO40lx9h-mb9-ACPjNiw0u_gFrabI9Asw59uBr9QpXkn54PZXI1MPMnvhaPf5TxgyZ6pSAmpxKrNOTU-23wTFruL3xtWHDcPXfIgVMNNDsv9AZ8hApwXJQPjmxAsUJpHiCcT58iQe7PeWeu8KsQU6MQRZ53vfkg1KK2kbPirtJpLOHhTrObfYBaBjIUEF=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CLJ6Z3tGZa5GN6hbloOJoDyy2wvTmHNjfPY9pk7gsBingLLYmiLMkgieGI-eAoNQnHEMd0beCz49osvkfTPEWLdqujHPDC_hJJ5gDBHy42MvlGwNwx_GlTYriyksBFddg15ItH7a2OG8FIBgxH_JhS5mmf0RJq5y2uLxhrsP7GI5Xok6AE43bq-Tj4AYCzgbkCjlufvOaeEmxpquhANNR1FPdyXC06ZFklq411PihE8a3DPmeTKqBV7v59sT-pyHKjSXxdJR7kye6-lnoyS7EVLB6p1kiaSnNx785hKpv4Jkb_Bj4iZJ4PHk2r5JhlLCbGGbnl07yIZBKgxhdNvtFwRc0rqLlHieUc1-2hr8R1K1dEEYrf0W_KDwDCr0CeB3dMcqf6BUhWZR3NCRE5FDe7VSkCrpUyJMrdFvDJE9DLFCgsxdWoNF2n0l6pZc0VBcmMi0pEHz-cgAuMMr1uze7plg7eyYA3k1FvV1NlayqbySoDy0wBIbqZfbwyqzE8JNly53P5gPSPS_dlbYshp_djRynm7MY71i2KeIxXHkyhJcJwDh0bV_y0gRXFLIxmh8V6ro6_bRBePflFgDt2XbW_E-tLjNHXTT=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JA1dMqivdqo3R_p4MzHMDzgHBT3eCdy1PDPasNY0W4WBqjDpqgbFeI2AQ-kFVIG6gE4DAIgOmEElOY9I-EZfBWSt3gvoJfvaIBSNqhVgVelwuz0RpRh_zKj4q68fqzjdX1-tct6oXDtKTRrCRfl3nupYwHKEmIp6--WH-CM5g6093uQ7Rbau71SoGnEZ6iqfSlNLg-bf2i3u72YR399s2KYPSHIsEl-RN4ywYaEkfjpJEwvCV5GECM8S097VYBkwgQJLWS41AAw0mhkX8e0wOyWu-Ok_l4mJKOXOP_fV7Yp3m28PglyKFRmzfZ7gX4ZM_gvZT42Y6JhiViW8XZJEcMUPezgW9VpL1anug_YRbxvgIQ11tvjdxaHqSmL-cBIEcoQcksib0kv2zh6Ci-RtI6fEelXrjwoLbkGMfKXP_oiogCVipVt-5pxPuVsQywb_CZKO4zVomSSyDV1_Xsg8_GpiVmp2BdStbhmIfPGPzte4iIZSkTB64RbEujZHUWw0dL9rpr8JEkhMgjT9Kn3maI7YAnt8vTcu2jHuuwY4G7anR6sjbxFH07xRowd4DXwEfLckr3ZUEwZvK6KWYM2dovEgKJmgqF4h=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vwbs7gVrevgMJF49TVl_NOX_u8MDz1pCXSUuZcLNQiZwZgAS9ejHn53feePKS6GbEZz-kF0AyLkzdp1nRObJAkQAYhT9NBJbJWYb3DqNk42wxUgBkoFlSDbKQs4vPKT8HMd2wiyuBjWtq-GmkF4OQVlv05v0u97SRWmjmrRRmJhZV-H0_Swn9yfiSwAjeR2rFMgcZlOUuImeZeethcwPYTNiqbLtfeDT-TiUQBTox6BdS6FpeoErSAdS9gpZT67KB6x7Nff3Umd7a3EDSxo7HCdufVW7WbvWa3d9EBDELq3uHFEQQM3v3iF1H7W5AZk1gZjNRGF_acasmn3s9buEt0sr0o56ZIncGdx_sGm_xacQ_Zh2WsHx_25lTXlZq632dnsOcLxirADJoifQ5lkAMijIx-qkpo6rUFHNkvDBTjzjViqa8BNBadH1IgpQWIHEUw2ySxp83qRXELi7wE1JHCBXY_9ORp0qez2Z96MlZ4HNWpVo9Swu1Wti7bbfYgebFtI_igO9JdwkWVm7uo_tKq4xZAkdmc7jMY6vZSheoyPjXOGPR81l5s5eKVcHt6pHcUcvTIx-pDVQUG5eznpFkkI_AbkOrV3j=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qyZq8usSEbSR-3tmOG03At19zhqBgjixqD1wD63uXIg-URyBwuRFX---I1LPjOoZEYd4mBxuccOGS8gRPnE4BI2vrix2sF3ZDGu5yfcaC4xooOemyDel2mSCRnQNd_aYAVqXMB1BkgKKy3dvMSwwb6USGQokRxCy5tiNuHR_asI0T_Tt3Xfb8RdhIphphHMeRTIqvW_uOyJinxMm2TbXW4ukrqGlZ2PrM45av0RUJ2d8f1S5oTjY3kD0JCRPwtlpVb4sGqNashiABrLEvMn4xCH9GNX2UyKMmf6-ibUwRnhP9eFYDHGyiCM8CnzSfQR9RJdqBgLFMYiLMNKJ6ZpyU4JyH5KZ8SH6NRYy52Y_MjLAFRdjAC_wd_ArbDanGCNQsnn4pLqLgfQz44tmImBe-QayY4IPf-R3u8GZ0rSF7pssG9r3w9sRB6fLmslxbqfk0RxR9aQtQ-xJLMpMMBKZc09all3pxhws7XCq0XPrbKWFX2YUor7iAZnIwnp9pB3yAcjNHNO6HFWoVrWdu7qTW6GLqlywR4upxrVHgNcGhNEQyoMeKaVsniR7NCC5BTC72mmFTfNQ9XjqHpItK_eLdqi3Wh4k31TZ=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>
<a href="http://www.stana.it/?section=vini#article-70">stana era col fondo</a> and cream-soaked rhubarb at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/labanchinacph/">la banchina</a>; kenya v60 at <a href="http://copenhagencoffeelab.com/">copenhagen coffee lab</a>; sweet and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salty_liquorice">salty licorice</a> and barley lemonade popsicle ("<a href="http://www.frisko.dk/produkter/kung-fu/">kung fu bar</a>") from your usual corner bodega; <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippophae">sea buckthorn</a>, red <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitaya">pitaya</a>, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jackfruit">jackfruit</a> ices from <a href="http://www.osterberg-ice.dk/">østerberg</a>; vinegar-powdered fried chicken, pickles, and a biscuit at <a href="http://amassrestaurant.com/">amass</a>; unnamed but "surprisingly drinkable" danish <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regent_(grape)">regent</a> rosé at <a href="http://rodder.dk/vin/">rødder & vin</a>.
<br><br>
some flavours unique to the northern latitudes are acquired tastes that are easy to acquire. vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-30396450843088631052016-07-08T23:47:00.000-07:002016-07-12T22:48:54.261-07:00frank's rooftop cafe<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2nL9nS5cTk6yXU9NTTINupGR3-ewSg2w95osP55-5UC_7TXogYbTyjMgnNxOt5Dh-v15XugnwiCSJ_Jj8gBuXlzpCK_cIJ0bC61_61r0Hjxk4CDcYjYfphXOsv46PPJ-N4ngHkqi_NUq1UGuvrLMSKDUBiuKgS6g-LmyuQpZ2yuc469gSkYLZpSQecDmt6Bxc6vPwtE4ZnMW5EykOytPVJbQjM-zETM7xO2qrlD36yz-cBwNzHcbYf06sxoeEmnEbOSX4IjhjaE6LxtO9nALkWu0PxFZevFEBp7L6XqYrx_6iLuVFltb4Y7JsT5WegYjwz09QPb1XavcuAr13EmV_r4HjoF6soTh5TUKhUl7uEewb0qtfUgvmEqP6PvCu8GK7R6qkdS5B6MJTFJtCjfDLe1ys8Z2b2P7KYVz8zNrd4_g07k84bH_Jo1FNgZCb1pVWZyMx4Ch4E3j9i4yaesm-pOxfuXTEld3-NT3FS2_mYyv8eU7fQfU9kV4JrddP18wjROUZE8MNOAe8M1rG_0tLbGttKVkjN5OwhHJnwoHDcXIZA_Xe5h6On3M5eJugtoAB_tQB0QQbYGVlqSb4X1FTEJ5HI6msI1v=w989-h1318-no" width="480px"><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kFUQ5MwtOeGXBK0LVcb-6knI_prCK7SJM5y3-Z9LTPzhepQWQbBlXg5-vvA6Ke9L-lhHZBDyf4Mzvge1Gv2Fy6zcxqrokFf8C0GNIVsZ-mlXq0XwJSzv9pt61tf4oTWejf9AwQwXMNX3hzcUkQdE4mJFU02bnZ5LF9NrWrUZqSlqAc2rFYW6dmxSl0TvqVgXDkVOZWhAqXijaMNlIJjkZreUA-RJnmmPRH2Q0IbhDRPgGNPmGUqhDZ7VpGM45tJY558m96K1OUapVcG1WhF3bNcSKtfsAqqzG5-sVa76xryv3HEX42KCAacAG89pRiYixcIovy-SDylLrL5MyPivC83sjbxBRiMO2X6HDcWeyxJ9jAI0K1v18JvgsHgADt5ePho9wlkfW77w2eRwv3hAW_mf6pSdKy7MAo1K5ml4T2m7bt4hAeyGyNFpoHcRaRCTQsU8tUZwCnK1a1u9TFPtRYM7aLXPJ6cH013G296UmHHZUNJ71M1EPnz3-68UMrbGY5L2_Y9A13p2P0JNI1FGXsDCxpqO5QhFt9G-6W9HhHhI68YllRmLO-1RjBlEa7tkLotNC4xq25VFZgLWDNVQx7-G-fOju9Zb=w485-h646-no" width="480px"><br>
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QpHsdOZFNQgxtcsw11SFXgDNQ5_V52zK7I4Tw1KjScoxSrMP_Chi-RwEuTsm23cZPunB2OOetfcqWVOXzd-TxeCkGhAEZDsaybpaEluerOiN4eENAfK41ORhDucocxAr90H3nfgLWjn1TXt2pZqrt6C9rXKnk4eIhOZvW7UiXHwmGentcKWwxIhxKQMQm6fMi64gXqDMfKGPjhHJrWCoy_vRYn1-qHoKgAbBJHH5lwUd_E2Mh746ZfPzIfoV2n-Pm1U6I0NyXb_6BJvnaCkL6fIzBYukK9ofpiZ52fnncgqn_OGevzbjYDxOuPKCnc5Bt5Ds1NGWW-FJ9ESpcPtZH2m_FKVwU50Mg4hUJjoFZttD7QFdG7ucyZ2vPkyw8urPcKo-ZQSAQ24NU3OXXhBv4a0-80Vt6Ur3U1mRBBQMjfKXKJYU1cjtJCcPE1t2B2U9XInX1IKEONzTlk5yBX1hONct65muELtbyMtM36_-cjOKKRuAR6MyzpqBH2xoOnXX1fUsAA8X02hnQ1cXXJ1snSwB0xKIWamhLxYjTwPaHL4Z_A2LxMyKF5DLAy5KvDoY0U2wzB-w2m-U442cxiwAwh3jOCJ-NS5-=w485-h646-no" width="480px"><br>
vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-48864472927177135102016-03-20T10:27:00.000-07:002016-04-07T04:33:57.573-07:00the comfort zone<img alt="studio" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X-vwv0pB6stHw0z0gq3_rhaHZpWmHdV3N-uujJ-pZG29wthWjhFv2GmrIhHMl3u1od_tbRU4Dg3LfCn60EMs9h1kM103eu2o9vVBSath0kzUT_pnmm9ebmPc8sBcem18sjUGK6a4BVptUYUnZVcpdWMds3e6ZW6ZuZh-njiPy9rjZkDoBAXet0Np_vwnWjmUs_x3XRz95RjnHmTO4a7M18S4_JF2A5le05AeYLpHnHw-NtcA-YmB2FbUXtc6tIBBmOAQHs89SeJLYjbNFar_3QzvKd-Qx49dhz1At8o5Pe7Nj7DCF-t-HIBsCsXAeBGNRJM7S28CC1xtKBLb6jlaZWQofFK-LVDybEpH_19DaiO0bw4FkfEBaFvg9vHbDTpz_8Rcgqf-K-girMkmRc4FeLfvspqQikGD_v2ztYV90biOrVccrBkE4DX7RdBO_MedqjXrgvy9HCtm0q_0HT8DPUkQ9qabLReZQuSkJvNnglxAOgT2hOZHaMZXjv7EOe0TL3ZFhCm6Ka8ScyhrvgLPAhpx7WPNov6qQ6ybe-_uWfUqRmmt1Iv-wSOcrf6Vp1tblc5mFw=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
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every restaurant in copenhagen that a noma alumnus starts has to make a point of not being another noma. sometimes, the tactics for doing this are broad stroke elements of presentation that are obvious and easily communicated in a photograph. at studio, the difference is subtle. torsten vildgaard's food does not push the eater beyond his comfort zone; there are no obviously exotically wild foods, no foods you obviously haven't eaten before. these days, restaurants showing such restraint are increasingly rare.
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even during a short lunch, the kitchen brought me to areas of my comfort zone i'd not visited before. a slice of half-frozen pineapple, a snack casually sent out before the mains, mildly aromatic with some bright but unidentifiable flavour; this flavour (yuzu) made a simple piece of pineapple arresting, outstanding. and the kitchen showed me areas of my comfort zone that were, unknown to me, adjacent to each other. poached salt cod in a briny butter emulsion was concealed by cloud of raw shaved broccoli; its delicate crunch and subtle sulphur note filled this usually staidly rich dish with the feeling of spring. even the bread service was remarkable for its unassuming attention to detail and thorough perfection, the quickly fermented, gently lactic bread made from wheat milled on site (and a trace of barley from a 50kg bag gifted to the restaurant) and accompanied by a dish of freshly made, properly salted whey butter. it was a pyrotechnic-free lunch, and one of the best meals i've had in a long time.
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for me, apart from the food, there was the added pleasure of seeing an old friend happy in his own kitchen. a chef with a clear point of view is rare, and one such who has created a kitchen, a restaurant, and a team which feels right is an even rarer satisfaction. for reasons unknown, the international press continues to fail to review studio—don't let this deter you from visiting.
<blockquote><a href="http://thestandardcph.dk/en/studio">studio</a><br>
havnegade 44
<br>1058 københavn K, denmark</blockquote>
part of my <a href="http://www.flavourcountryfeedlot.com/2010/03/short-list-of-nearly-perfect-meals.html">incomplete list of nearly perfect meals</a>.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-52038199305159261332016-03-17T13:45:00.000-07:002016-03-17T13:45:05.212-07:00liquid link<blockquote>
How you are able to taste a glass of wine and travel in your mind to the place where it began, recall the way the place looked in the Fall, the way the air smelled, the palpable energy of a vineyard bursting with fruit. Beer cannot do that, nor anything distilled. Walk a great wine estate and the wines produced there never taste the same again. Wine connects us to our senses, and to the places we’ve been, and the trajectory of our life. I know of nothing else that can make that connection. Wine grounds us on this beautiful planet. Maybe if the world had more wine drinkers, we wouldn’t have ruined it so carelessly.<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>ron washam, HMW</i></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i><a href="http://hosemasterofwine.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/the-hosemaster-of-wine-at-spottswoode.html">"the hosemaster of wine™ at a spottswoode vertical tasting"</a></i></div>
</blockquote>
vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-63104387277160630162016-03-09T16:09:00.001-08:002016-03-09T16:09:36.925-08:00learning how to eat<blockquote>
Eating is highly subjective, and the man who accepts say-so in youth will wind up in bad and overtouted restaurants in middle age, ordering what the <i>maître d'hôtel</i> suggests. He will have been guided to them by food-snob publications, and he will fall into the habit of drinking too much before dinner to kill the taste of what he has been told he should like but doesn't.<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>a.j. liebling,"<a href="http://amzn.to/1Ug2KFW">just enough money</a>."</i></div>
</blockquote>
vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-49422928497597257912016-02-13T03:32:00.000-08:002016-02-15T12:38:51.502-08:00barbacoa<img alt="cocina vianey" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eD5SaHgC5QCOyhS1QQyouo7A-VRjC2dMW5LCEBEFPV1vQLWOXl1HBBz9fl5dlTvWHoUD4QKiPt1DsZFt8AWgzB6o25Nt2VJa9WsvZN1ead_TYGmFwIFyUMnPVYjjnVOL9_60ApCtSw_ZpWfC4SVRf7reAsAjpV8zmi2H7HMMZWSqItpzcjqDAka_6OUtBjhfZOobXKQWWHPLHExEAtZ_YBRxII_EQWROGKvxfXfvwysmPhWFIv9hCGJvoY_YxdFCtYDVlQEpQq5EW6gj0I-WJYIXejkb_Fm2qZ9DYeCD1Fd9XYKRXUdHW6FLY54cXelk8u0rjl_RZ-n-a1PTcG6yaBfZbIPBBrGFP7TlBThRQV6J0C1BPxsO6Qyj5CZlSXlpt_bvy8CZ0msaAJadcLXNuWcASN-PuwVurf1KH57L79NpD_YM8H5BUuqKt_Bhe7pcDX-aF3jWGzz9ZFQb0XTrc02bM4MkkFiHPd7Oi6mqwDUDzFl5kq3L5EqRI8kQVx5cgYPvAhm_n8x822_6SByvGoV-nbxEIlUaHWxfXLLle1Jh2-6PDI3Ll156kH7E-edMZ8M9bw=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
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take advantage of the free taster taco they hand you over the splashguard surrounding the butcher block. grab a table—remembering that passing cars can transfer the contents of puddles in the street to those sitting streetside—then start with mutton broth with a (self-administered) squeeze of lime, chopped onion and cilantro, and a spoon of rice. after the soup, call for tender-crisp bits of mostly (but not totally) rendered meat hacked from a sheep oven-roasted in a maguey leaf, and a lidded box of fresh corn tortillas. salsa borracha (toasted pasilla, onions, pulque) and more cilantro/onion/lime are necessary additions to the tacos you make; adding crumbled chicharrón gilds the lily, but that's OK. the sheep roasted here are raised on the family farm west of mexico city. another reason to get up early on a weekend morning.<br><br>
cocina vianey<br>
ernesto pugibet, 34<br>
colonia centro<br>
mexico dfvaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-48123661653884734312016-01-23T19:02:00.000-08:002016-01-23T19:05:26.096-08:00fruit of the new world<img alt="grapefruit" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YXmbcv7M-Vojkmdj1J6GBG8oFo7HGAWXQjbGQbQpJqNcY27-WpLoRWsp9ZQ9P3Z5yqqCqcZaW9tkV6y5jsVxHvHqbZeh0zR5KLF_1l6AXdlRKUM7nd3ownh_4vAZEOiL_J31n6bJY1FcmEcRcozpfnCHAa91IwfOz3xao4a0ojpAupW868vUd5GywWYmRmvOpzc3O9I6CZ1RcR-Yh3NC5oJGF2zgEMz7e9WufU6erxjjt27V-YehLaTaOrWWAKyaPLNzIo1SUTAN24IjCjHHjSg7PqT3LUSMBRuTiZLGPoTs1grXS2b3QvfsmtxQk_x94JaHS0mZ90C_CbSr7XETOoVSJPRPhY3ckjiKZ9f5tmE9ZDYEIbXyeNoEieBrC5YHA9s8nLfB69AETfVYCcgCF0bqCLkgyj2eFW_ZnN7SvGbq_62Hwa1ezsaxvg41QUW9Qa6s8g688xfrSHmgIOjV3hko-DBzBGiORA1xIQPlTHlTeNsCgwEKgqBVmIpBDj0vqgc92Smi68KH8C7Svm6kiTaO5ig-DC95ekQWJRLxKEGcTL39FuXm_4XEZ59xE7AF2obWBw=w900-no" width="480" />
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mercado jamaica, mexico city. in warm climates, as one discovers in <a href="http://amzn.to/1VhlDXn"><i>oranges</i></a>, citrus may ripen fully even when the skin remains green.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-79059211933683976232015-11-18T15:58:00.002-08:002015-11-19T04:21:04.000-08:00taco sprezzatura<img height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XoL6l8eHD06UmShvd3pEL9XjmhNobfqvLEwP6mjoB0m6g6uKUaNFAtu-EsZXa4ZP1pnSAUmR0UxscIiyhnLHn7ccbihEHA00XMnsQAnHh2QT7J1QMheNhrhrG_yFFnnSKQ9sjd47s-Orbm9bpRj4Qpo_K03ATgQOJXydIeENI-hQctjxgq4u5TS7KtEtEG18yaAN5WEdZHEF2iK06Z5DNhtXmwkhMMKe87-R05fxd_A-uPmuHRRFXkm1xTvIenvPcX-tDv-d_bK0Occ4_ut8ms3kxwj5VO3RRC9LOe9k2t30RzaY5qx32i3-UMM88fHHLv7xK-5uZAnyANVtgxrmy6nQFGCvRwKLRhR1Qzd6kFaQAeo0PpDKNTivdfdcVrd-8jwJeNIa6s2YG0ItJIfEEIT-TcSnMKiapmjIj2GtvhPRXWevwtENb_7qSBkuMZJG93lW1146LGa4QiADh1yq_ebX7nbpvx_46-4zKOr2oGEXwM7t7Ajsc6d44cDk3CX-LDrpgLRaEHZ_y43pTTrmVhEPQqVtUvQLEI6MF5JGHPeU=w480-no" width="480" />
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<br>the best taco al pastor i've had in the last 18 months featured the correct cut of pork (the shoulder) spit-roasted to render much of the fat and bring the surface to a balance between crispness and char, then thinly shaved, precisely sauced, and topped with a baton of cold fresh pineapple, on a cal-scented and slightly scorched fresh corn tortilla. i did not find this taco on a street corner in mexico city, nor was it at <a href="http://hydrationisourhighestpriority.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/taco-de-adobada.html">the off-strip location of tacos el gordo in las vegas</a>, nor was it at the tacos el gordo mothership in chula vista (which claimed but did not deliver housemade corn tortillas). <br><Br>no, this best taco al pastor—which wore its fastidious attention to detail lightly—was from <a href="http://www.empellon.com/al-pastor/">empellon al pastor</a> in new york, the third mexican restaurant from alex stupak (once pastry chef at alinea and wd-50) and lauren resler (once pastry chef at babbo). vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-82331517520780674982015-10-05T04:43:00.000-07:002017-06-27T12:57:13.834-07:00the search for soup<img src="https://68.media.tumblr.com/e93f5909abbbdaa5b5ed5a8675ec4bf0/tumblr_nvqrlgglIg1qd0u60o1_1280.jpg" width="480" />
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<br>
in mexico city, i hunted caldo de camarón. six bowls in five days. the oddest and least delicious was made from dried bay shrimp in a seedy cantina in colonia san rafael. as a heartlander, it disappoints me a bit that <a href="http://www.contramar.com.mx/">contramar</a>'s was the best by a wide margin—murky with prawn brains and garlic, red with achiote, refreshed by cubes of avocado and a liberal showering of white onion, cilantro, and lime.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-23634387757407589172015-09-06T15:47:00.000-07:002015-09-08T16:41:46.713-07:00a good year for plums<img alt="the old english gage" height="640" src="http://40.media.tumblr.com/daf02965afc02a5661d9bf3dbb5afd6a/tumblr_nuatcs8KPE1uncbaco1_1280.jpg" width="480" />
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by september, the cherries are over but other fruit have ripened to take their place. at the perry court farm stand, the fruit section is now a sea of plums. plums, plums, plums. martin fermor, perry court farm owner, orchardist, and apple enthusiast, said to me: "you won't regret trying one of these little ugly green ones that are a bit banged up." right on. "widely considered the best-flavoured of all plums," these old english gages are "<a href="http://www.orangepippin.com/gages/old-greengage">a sublime taste experience when you get a good one.</a>"vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-53385605949831100472015-07-29T07:10:00.002-07:002015-07-31T10:30:41.035-07:00behind the scenes<img alt="behind the scenes" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/32xGO_et-xRMhkGVlSrlWhPdmVVe0Xx26iVWOZxdmLKX=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
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<br>
distinctive products often require distinctive equipment.
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backbar<br>
7 sanborn court, somerville ma 02143.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-25082678715969046122015-07-03T08:40:00.000-07:002015-07-03T08:40:38.001-07:00auto-awesome<img alt="cold brewing" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EU0VSoxpap8D8M1dyClV90xR7NF1USH-eFS4rPhQRqii=w730-h972-no" width="480" />
<br>brewing <a href="http://www.jbkaffee.de/espresso/aethiopien-limu-nano-challa.php">jb's nano challa</a> cold at <a href="http://www.mothersmilkcoffee.com/">mother's milk</a>, surprise low framerate video by <a href="https://support.google.com/plus/answer/6027520?hl=en-GB">auto-awesome</a>.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-87380727864122357642015-07-02T11:01:00.000-07:002017-02-09T03:03:03.794-08:00spargelzeit<img alt="asparagus" src="http://68.media.tumblr.com/93514c05afd465b5adc1c2e7e13c467a/tumblr_nkzp36YSSx1qd0u60o1_1280.jpg" width="480" />
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asparagus, goat butter, salt.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-21912495658014894042015-06-28T02:57:00.002-07:002015-07-02T11:12:22.404-07:00d.i.y.<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t3FGJ1vgxZ2aAIBpLMDVsHmzhHVl_52ES3cNX3ar73PC=w989-h1318-no" width="480" />
<br>on the morning of our departure, the kitchen counter held a bowl of eggs and a box of sappy roma tomatoes from the grounds, the remains of a jamon iberico de bellota, and a bag of molletes de antequera. the best time to make yourself a breakfast sandwich is before everyone else is awake and clamouring for one too.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-87638646518251203802015-05-31T14:38:00.000-07:002015-07-02T11:33:01.743-07:00cambodia in oslo in paris<img alt="oslo" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E298pW1-neI/VWLsensJj_I/AAAAAAAAdn0/BlkDLw3KAVU/w919-h1220-no/IMG_20150523_141150.jpg" width="480" />
<img alt="num kiem pav" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T_MzXz1AhMY/VWLsfQfp_DI/AAAAAAAAdns/AaLIcWO16kU/w899-h1220-no/IMG_20150523_145309.jpg" width="480" />
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at the end of our journey deep into the 13th arrondissement, we met bitter disappointment in the guise of a half-shuttered storefront from which emanated the sounds of post-lunch cleanup. after a disconsolate walk with an increasingly restless infant (not mine) around the oslo commercial centre—a laotian/thai shopping mall in a paris suburb—we succumbed to the easy option and went next door to chheng sim. this cambodian/lao/vietnamese lunch counter is run by cambodians of chinese origin and decorated with a large painting of angkor wat and many gleaming christmas ornaments. <br><br>with no cambodian food prior, i can't say if we ate ideal types or an idiosyncratic riff on traditional forms. the num krouk were small bites, in the manner of aebleskiver or takoyaki, made with a batter of rice flour and coconut milk and filled with a more liquid batter of rice flour, coconut milk, and fish sauce, then topped with fried ground pork. the six that came out each had a lacy, crisp frill around a custard-textured interior and were a nearly perfect snack: light but rich and intensely savoury. the banana flower salad was a paragon of balance and reminded me of the virtues of judiciously applied rau ram. the num kiem pav kampot (shown above; these are the words printed on the receipt—i can't find this anywhere on the internet) were loosely filled with precisely julienned bamboo shoots and pork, showered with dark and crisply fried shallots, and had a remarkable skin which was clearly not all rice flour: glossy, flexible, and both yielding and snappy. <br><br>a generous and unexpectedly beautiful lunch.
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chheng sim (清心)<br>
olympiades no. 33<br>
44 avenue d'ivry, 75013 parisvaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-27889161114062846852015-05-20T01:41:00.000-07:002015-05-20T01:41:59.491-07:00white leaf<img height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-igAyXXQvoPM/VVgOVOKwYPI/AAAAAAAAdD8/rq0-Uyb7TVw/w921-h1228-no/IMG_20150516_140939.jpg" width="480" />
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<br><a href="http://www.postcardteas.com/site/">tim d'offay</a> returns from japan with something new and improbable.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-62674419269232180582015-05-04T18:59:00.000-07:002015-07-02T11:34:22.222-07:00the lowly legume<img alt="ALT TEXT" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WlA7hVrmWL4/VTqei4w6AtI/AAAAAAAAb_w/3LBntu91hAo/w600-no/IMG_20150422_135611.jpg" width="480" />
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the interior of las cuatro milpas in san diego's barrio logan appears mostly unscathed by the passage of eight decades and is bigger than it appears from the outside, the better to accommodate a fully functioning tortilleria. did you know that a milpa is a field most often used for a class of traditional mesoamerican multicrop agriculture that only infrequently includes wheat as a crop? nonetheless, the handmade wheat tortillas, correctly scorched, are superb—as good as, or even better than, the lightly fried corn tortillas used for tacos. but the real winner is achiote rice with thin-skinned, delicate-textured beans. you will not regret asking for an adult-sized bowl, especially if you cover it with a drift of chopped cilantro while the cash register operator is distracted.
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Las-Cuatro-Milpas/421776945082">las cuatro milpas</a><br>1857 logan avenue, san diego, CA.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-24113089715966438272015-03-27T13:54:00.001-07:002015-03-27T13:54:34.191-07:00afternoon coffee<img alt="prufrock" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1QOkRmfCcbY/VQzABMC0uoI/AAAAAAAAaXo/wYBosRk8VN4/w921-h1228-no/IMG_20150320_140304.jpg" width="480" />
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a milk drink at prufrock can sometimes be a good idea.vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-75046067120104944402015-02-27T03:43:00.001-08:002015-03-13T07:09:49.408-07:00quiet innovation<img alt="tuna" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/74Qh8LGbHZUPCXo4UUiLuMQ8VmjhXnnE2gSmgq0LSdOk=w905-h1183-no" width="480" />
<blockquote>– the sauce is very good. what is it?<br>
— it is six-year onion vinegar!<br>
– what do you mean? this is six years old?<br>
— no, half. every year we make the onion oroshi, with vinegar and mirin. but at first the onion is very hot, not good to eat. after one year, it is better. i take out half to use and put in new onion, vinegar, mirin. next year, i take out again half. six years now. it came with us from the old shop.<br>
– you have an onion vinegar solera.<br>
— you want recipe?<br>
– sumimasen.</blockquote>
fresh onion sweetness without the heat, the richness of long-cooked onions without distracting caramelization, balanced by a rich acetic acidity: a smart japanese cousin of faviken's sour onions cooked in whey, and the unexpectedly correct match for well-aged maguro. <br><br>a thread running through lunch was the elegant use of ingredients: sayori nigiri chased by a skewer of its torched skin, kuruma-ebi dressed with a sauce of its brains. the shari was successfully iconoclastic—sasanishiki very al dente, each grain with a dot of crunch at its centre, pale pink and bran-scented from being dressed with a mixture of the traditional rice vinegar and the dark red vinegar made from sake lees. <br><br>discovered by the purest chance, but a worthwhile place to observe how a confident chef produces new, wonderful, and good-humoured food without having to make a big fuss about it.
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<img alt="the book" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EKmjIMWmYXs/VMHYQF7MN5I/AAAAAAAAXD8/mvLVMS7pW34/w888-h1184-no/IMG_20150123_140858.jpg" width="480" /> <br><br>
<a href="http://1shin-sushishin.co.jp/">sushi shin</a> (鮨心)<br>
minamiazabu 4-12-4, platinum court hiroo 1F, tokyovaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-85331359915742330792015-02-26T05:20:00.000-08:002015-02-27T05:24:14.591-08:00a good sandwichis hard to find, but is simple nonetheless: good bread, correct ingredients, appropriate proportions, proper assembly. the aggressive toasting job is a particularly nice touch. <br><br><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mcD9kdo-Z2Q/VO0cMqfa1EI/AAAAAAAAZgc/z4IvOWAS-80/w888-h1184-no/IMG_20150224_140146.jpg" width="480" />
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<a href="http://www.embassyeast.co.uk/">embassy east</a><br>
285 hoxton st, N1 5JXvaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-2196571526595399572015-02-22T15:51:00.000-08:002015-02-23T03:25:05.667-08:00at bar liber<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r4doieZFsko/VJ4HeBS24sI/AAAAAAAAU1c/TMUd14ogmgw/w500-no/IMG_20141226_204632.jpg" width="480px"><br>
fig in passionfruit syrup, cream cheese, cracker. and a good bamboo. owner and sole employee fuminori umeda says: "i make it myself. it is very simple: fig in the syrup, kurimu cheezu on the cracker. it is done." just so.<br><br>
motoyoyogichō 11-1 1F, tokyo.
vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3592284935363040191.post-58734177155130990802015-02-20T08:25:00.003-08:002015-02-20T08:25:54.776-08:00at henri milan<img alt="S&X 2013" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EeKu74B4qRQ/VFU0g9mVrtI/AAAAAAAATAs/6_zqO-ljHcU/w903-h1228-no/IMG_20141101_160316.jpg" width="480" />
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sebastien xavier is <a href="http://www.domaine-milan.com/">domaine milan</a>'s cellarmaster, and S&X is his personal cuvée (monocépage grenache noir). vaughn tanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16739209101550945403noreply@blogger.com0