white leaf

tim d'offay returns from japan with something new and improbable.

techno-tea

at samovar's new bar on valencia street, tea is made in gleaming glass and milled steel. the lure of control through shiny techno-nerdery may finally nudge tea into the world of the technologically obsessive consumer. but the best tea will always be made by hand from leaves selected with discernment and with an attention to how each brew changes from moment to moment—an approach which did not help hayes valley's modern tea stay afloat and open.

teacoffee

a low-temperature v60 of los altos jinotega from square mile and a very hot glass of turmeric and black pepper tea.