fish and shellfish are the chief virtues of the boqueria market in what passes for winter in north-east spain. this 2.2 kilogram whole european seabass fit snugly in the roasting pan with only minor modifications. the little still-wriggly parasite attached to the underside of its tongue gave me a moment's pause, but not much will survive 20 minutes at 200C in a fan-forced oven. i made sure to wedge the mouth open with a piece of lemon.
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