Wednesday, July 30, 2014

canard à la presse


as the GMO debacle demonstrates, pockets of resistance are essential when the crowd embraces novelty and turns on what is tested and true. otto's rigid adherence to tradition may seem at first a manifestation of luddite tendencies but in truth represents careful observation of what is enjoyable, satisfying, and good. burgundy* and an antique silver duck press from christofle in the style of the tour d'argent are not necessary for this preparation but sure are nice. on the other hand, properly souffléed potatoes are an entirely different story. the crunch of the carcass yielding under the turn of the screw—and the gurgle of the mingled marrow and blood streaming into the jug that awaits—may make this experience unsuitable for vegetarians.

* lamy, st aubin "derrière chez edouard" 2009; bachelet-monnot maranges "la fussière" 2010; buisson, st-romain "sous roche" 2009. all still tight and crunchy but nice regardless.

Monday, July 28, 2014

wine nerd pals

on the edgware road at the end

one for the books: a hot, dry, london afternoon spent hydrating assiduously with fellow wine nerds under the umbrellas in the back garden at kandoo on the edgware road. lunch can stretch effortlessly over seven hours when there are many things to eat and drink* and much to discuss.

* j. lassalle, blanc de blancs brut 2002; cedric flaction, païen 2010; immich-batterieberg, escheburg 2012; schloss neuweier, goldener loch GG 2012; clos de la marechale, NSG 2010 and 2011; ch. grand-puy-lacoste, pauillac 1988; casa pardet, tempranillo reserva 1995; julien frémont, pur pom 2009; cold-brewed assam tea.

Monday, July 7, 2014

fools are a dime a dozen

st john bread and wine

but a good fool is hard to find. the english demotic dessert tradition ("pudding"), which flourishes at st john bread and wine, is characterized by many things, not the least of which is a close attention to humble components with textures which must be finely judged in production: fools, jellies, junkets, trifles, possets, custards, creams, and such.

above, walnut cream with blueberries, cherry jelly with lemon sables (partly occluded), and strawberry trifle with toasted almond flakes. this is not french pastry—nor should it be.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

day and night

10 greek le mont 2009 a smear cialla bianco 2001 chamois du paradis 2010 savagnin 2001

at 10 greek street, we looked in luke's leatherbound book of monthly beverage specials to accompany several impeccably cooked plates of simple food. in such a situation, four hours passed quickly. also note the intelligent and fuss-free container for condiments, menus, and table settings. later that day—much, much later—some decisions were made by others which i approved of completely.