now that visits to paris are dominated by a burgeoning research project on natural wine tacit knowledge networks, it is tough to find time to give laminated dough products the detailed examination they deserve—unless the opportunity for a drive-by shooting presents itself. after coffee, emperor norton and their over-affectionate but touchably soft mutt brought me to 59 RdS (at 59 rue de saintonge), whose croissant was Extremely Good. savoury but not salty, it did not self-eviscerate when pulled apart and was appropriately bronzed. however, the crust was neither crisp nor tender (instead, fairly workmanlike), and the crumb—while open and uniform—was custardy and bready in places due to many collapsed laminations. very creditable, one of the best in years, and with a unique savour, but not at the level of the croissants from the obsessives at the tokyo manufactory of eric kayser, at least a few years ago. (the same kayser whose paris shops are now, to put it charitably, not worthwhile.)
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